Centella Ampoule inhibits the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α by high concentrations of Centella (≥0.5%), and has been shown to reduce the area of erythema by 38.7% (measurement device: Mexameter MX18). A 2023 British Journal of Dermatology study revealed that a 0.2% hydroxy-cistoxalic acid solution lowered skin barrier transdermal water loss (TEWL) from 25.3 g/m²/h to 16.8 g/m²/h (33.6% reduction) within 48 hours, and stratum corneum lipid density was increased by 19.4% (confocal Raman spectroscopy). South Korea’s AmorePacific Group test findings indicated that its Asiaticosa ampere bottle’s pH level is consistent at 4.5-5.5 (mimic healthy skin acid film), and alkaline skincare products (pH > 7) shorten the skin healing cycle from 14 days to 7.3 days.
The thermal sedation process has something to do with the process of infiltration by nano-microcapsules. For example, Dr. Jart+ ‘s Cicapair anklet, containing liposomes of 80 nm or smaller particle size to encapsulate centella asiativa extract, has increased transdermal absorption rate from 12% to 34% in conventional formulations (fluorescence tracer validation). When the epidermal temperature rose to 38.5°C due to inflammation, the menthol derivative in the composition (0.03% concentration) reduced the epidermal temperature by 2.8°C in 90 seconds (infrared thermal imager measurement) and blocked the burning sensation via the TRPM8 receptor (VAS pain score was reduced by 47%). Clinical findings showed that after 72 hours of application, the frequency of pruritus attacks in patients decreased from 3.2 to 1.1 per hour (65.6% decrease).
More than one antioxidant pathway is involved in the regulation of oxidative stress. Ampere with 5% Asiaticosa total glycosides increased SOD enzyme activity by 42% (skin model test in vitro) and increased free radical clearance from 28% to 79% (ORAC value measurement) in the control group. Estee Lauder’s Lab found that a synergistic ratio of centella to vitamin E (1:0.5) suppressed UV-induced DNA damage (formation of CPDs) by 62% (flow cytometry). With PM2.5 air pollution (concentration ≥75 μg/m³), carbon particle deposition on the skin of the user was reduced by 51% (tape stripping analysis), due to the electrostatic adsorption effect of cationic polymers in the product, e.g., polyammonium salt-51.
Cost-benefit analysis reveals clinical benefits. The cost per milliliter of 0.5% ciaticoside was 0.38, compared with 11.2 for prescription), and the incidence of side effects decreased from 12.7 percent of steroid preparations (e.g., telangiectasia) to 0.9 percent. According to L ‘Oreal Consumer Survey, 89.3% (NPS net recommendation +62) of the consumers were satisfied after using it for 28 days, and re-purchase rate was 37% higher than the regular moisturizer.
Technological advancement is in the form of stability control. The new microemulsification process reduced the rate of degradation of asiaticoside at room temperature from 8.4% to 0.9% per month of normal emulsion (detection by HPLC), and extended the shelf life to 24 months from 12 months. According to the 2024 Shiseido patent, retention of active ingredients was enhanced from 78% to 95% with the addition of 0.01% ergothione under the simulated sunlight irradiation (3000 lux/8 hours), and the reduction rate of photosensitive erythematous area was enhanced by 22% (compared with the sole application of Asiaticum).